spa parts, hot tub parts and repair help
spa parts, hot tub parts and repair help
spa parts, hot tub parts and service help
spa parts, hot tub parts and repair help
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Sta-Rite® Motor and Seal Replacement Previous Page Next Page

Note that the purpose of this section is to show you how to remove & install a Sta-Rite® P2R Series Pool and Spa pump motor and seal kit.    While every effort is made to be sure that virtually all areas of complexity are covered, you may find it more difficult or sometimes easier to accomplish this task.  Use common sense.  If the pump that you have on your pool or spa is a lot different from what is depicted here, then do not use these instructions. This is page 2 of this procedure  

Safety Warnings!
Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE performing this procedure.  Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to electrical shock and/or electrocution!
Disclaimer

The instructions here are intended for general reference only.  Many pumps are different from the one depicted here, and may require more or less mechanical effort or knowledge in order to achieve the desired results.
READ FIRST BEFORE YOU CONTINUE

Pumps and Parts Price Listings: Complete Pumps, Wet Ends, Motors, Seals, Impellers, Kits.


Sta-Rite Pool Pump This example of pump seal replacement is on a Sta-Rite Duraglas® pool pump.  There are three versions of seals/seal kits available.  The most inexpensive is the #200 seal set, show below.  The most extensive kit available from Sta-Rite Industries is a complete rebuild kit, containing all components internal to the wet end.
 
Available at SpaPartsHD.Com
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Remove the old pump seal Remove the 4 bolts attaching the wet end and motor to the base
Remove the spring loaded part of the pump seal. This can be accomplished with a pair of pliers or by carefully using a screwdriver to pry it out.
With the seal removed, then I remove the four machine bolts that hold the seal plate, the base, and the motor together. Don't forget that the bottom bolts are a little longer than those on the top.

Assembly just falls apart Corrosion caused pump motor failure.
Next thing I do is to separate the seal plate (the back half of the pump), from the motor. With the bolts removed, and the seal gone, it should almost "fall apart", so use care. On the right, a quick inspection reveals why these things usually fail in the first place.... corrosion... that is, the pump seal failed, and water got into the front bearings of the motor, causing it to run really loud, and eventually, just seize up.

 original 48 frame motor and new 56 frame top removing the damper
The original motor was a two speed 48 frame square flange version, that was not using the low speed setting. I'm replacing it with a 56 frame (more heavy duty) single speed motor. You can see the obvious differences in motor sizing on the left. Also noticeable is the burned paint on the top of the original motor due to excessive resistance built up in the pump bearings. The heat from the bearings doesn't just destroy the bearings themselves, but the excess current draw over a long period of time causes internal damage to the windings.

To help accomplish this physical size change, I remove the rubber damper on the pump base, because the diameter of the motor is larger than the original. This doesn't make it a perfect fit, but it certainly makes it a better one.

Removing the ceramic seal and heat sink Close up
Final removal of heat sink and seal
The final point of disassembly, is to knock out the ceramic seal and rubber boot. If it has a metal heat sink inserted in the back plate, then that should be removed, cleaned up and resealed as well. This is relatively easy. I simply use a screwdriver and knock it out from the back using the palm of my hand. Some of these may require more force.
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