spa parts, hot tub parts and repair help
spa parts, hot tub parts and repair help
spa parts, hot tub parts and service help
spa parts, hot tub parts and repair help
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Spa Control System Replacement, Gecko Pro-Pack, Page 2 Previous

This section shows a complete spa control system replacement sequence.  It is on an older Leisure Bay Industries spa, utilizing an FF-32 control system, with a Vulcan Electric heater.  The new system is a Gecko Pro-Pack.  This installation is relatively easy, and straight forward, however it does take some time to do it properly, along with the use of a lot of common sense.  Virtually all spa equipment configurations are different, sometimes even among those of the same make and model. 

Sometimes only slight variations can cause problems in one installation that you'll not see in another, so be careful, and if you decided to tackle a project like this, remember to think.... and measure... and re-think... and re-measure... BEFORE you cut or glue in that fitting!
 

Safety Warnings!
Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE working on your spa/hot-tub!  Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to electrical shock and/or electrocution!
Disclaimer

Drain the spa before attempting a job like this!
READ FIRST BEFORE YOU CONTINUE

 
Next is to mount the new side control panel.  The newer one is almost always larger than the older air operated version, so I make some reference markings with a pencil or marker, and use a jig/sabre saw with a fine tooth blade to make the hole larger.  For me, a 14 tooth per inch blade works well.  Don't use a standard wood blade!!  You could shatter the surface acrylic sheeting, and have a mess on your hands.  If you put some electrical tape on the foot plate of the saw, you'll prevent surface scratching.
Checking the space requirements, and marking Making the mounting hole larger.

The new controls come with a 3-M adhesive strip around the bottom of the mounting flange, but in some cases, I prefer to use a silicone sealant all the way around the control, to further prevent water from draining into the equipment compartment underneath.
Larger hole ready for mounting the side control. Side control mounted.
Now here's a neat trick.  The newer style light housings are a bit smaller than this older style one.  What I like to do with this is to apply 4 silicone 'nubs' around the outside perimeter of the light fixture.  When the silicone cures, the light fixture will be held in by them very well.  This way, the light holder can be removed, and over time, exhibits good resistance to vibration
.
Light fixture retainers...



All of that completed, then on to finish the plumbing.  Next thing is to mount a 2" to 1.5" reducer (also called a pvc flush bushing) into the heater coupler.
Flush bushing. flush bushing installed into 2 inch heater coupler.

Now measure the appropriate lengths of pvc and finish the assembly. 
Discharge plumbing complete Pump to heater plumbing complete.

With the little silicone 'nubs' cured, I install the light assembly, and route the 12 volt wiring out of the way.
Mounted light fixture

Plumbing the system.  
Using a free mounting hole, a nylon tie-wrap works well to hold the control wires in place.

drilling for the new thermowell Apply silicone sealant prior to installation.
After the new blower is put into place, I use Koller Pevi-Col cement to install a 1.5 inch to 2 inch flush bushing onto the existing flex pvc blower line.  Using Pevi-Col prevents explosive air mixtures from occurring in the blower motor. 

Then, I insert the 2 inch flush bushing into the blower discharge hole, and drill a self-tapping screw into the flange to hold it in place.  Never glue the assembly into the blower opening!


Thermowell installed  
Finally, tie up the rest of the control wires, connect the control panel and thermostat sensor to the spa pack, as well as the pump motor and blower to the system plugs.  Then hook the electrical supply according to the instructions that come with the spa pack.  Fill the spa, check for leaks, and enjoy.

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